Winter is upon us and seasonal changes affect our skin, causing it to be dry and lacking luster. Harsh winter cold air prevents our skin from retaining moisture as it evaporates quickly. In order to combat winter skin blues, It’s important we feed our skin and body’s adequate nutrients, boost blood flow and sebum production and provide adequate hydration.
At the heart of a dewy complexion, is hydrated skin with adequate amounts of water and lipids. This provides a friendly environment for cells to function optimally, release toxins and deliver nutrients. When the surface of our skin has a healthy lipid barrier, it can prevent water loss and provide protection from free radical damage and environmental toxins that contribute to premature aging. In fact, a healthy lipid barrier is so important to staying hydrated that it helps prevent and greatly reduce the emergence of wrinkles, blackheads, redness and open pores.
What kinds of things affect the lipid barrier and hydration levels of our skin?
Our hormones also play a role in level of oiliness, and throughout our life fluctuates in sebum production starting in our 20’s. Ever notice how you breakout around your cycle? Among other things, increased oil production contributes to hormonal breakouts. After 35, our sebum production naturally slows, and can be very noticeable after menopause.
Our environment, Altitude, Seasonal changes, sun exposure, temperature and humidity can all impact the amount of sebum that is created.
Excessive scrubbing, exfoliating or washing, can create imbalanced sebum production
As we age, wrinkles appear deeper because natural moisture barriers (NMF) break down while the skin dries out.
Nutrition impacts sebum production. Many skin problems, such as early aging or sagging are due to lack of fats in both diet and on the skin so healthy fats in diets such as coconut oil, avocados, salmon. While caffeine, carbohydrates and sugar in the diet can draw moisture from the body.
Water can actually dehydrate the skin. Chemicalized (hard) water can have a dehydrating effect on the skin. Because hard water contains several minerals, it will leave a buildup of residue. This, unfortunately, can clog skin pores, and also strip away the skin’s natural moisture.
It may seem daunting, but there is some good news. We can hack skin dryness and help our skin stay hydrated by using a layering technique when applying our skincare.
To layer your products efficiently, let's talk about the basics of your ingredients.
Water based facial serums act to plump and revive,
Facial oils nourish the skin
Moisturizers act as a barrier to lock in moisture and protect the skin.
So how does layering work? Firstly, we deliver a humectants and minerals to deliver 'water based' hydration to the cells. Second, we need an emollient to deeply moisturize, heal and nourish, and lastly, an occlusive to act as a barrier to lock in moisture and protect the skin from water loss.
Here are some examples:
Humectants - Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Marine and Botanical Extracts, and Amino Acids
Emollient – Facial oils are loaded with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids boost collagen production in strong, healthy skin. Most oils are considered emollients and helps to replenish the cell membrane and thus help to seal in moisture in the cells. Great non-clogging oils are rosehip, camellia, squalane, grapeseed, and baobab. If after applying your facial oil you still feel oily after 5 – 10 minutes you may have applied to much.
Occlusive oils are those that are slow to penetrate the skin such as argan, olive, avocado, macadamia nut, shea butter, cocoa butter and beeswax. Allantoin is a botanical extract found in the comphrey plant and can help create a barrier over the skin while healing and promoting cell regeneration.
Other skin hydrating tips:
Spritz your skin with a hydrating toner and then apply oil midday (not over makeup). This wraps the skin in lipids and they love it!
Use a water filter and softener in your shower.
Limit excessively long HOT showers and baths as this can draw water from your body.
Drink lots of high quality spring or alkaline water and eat hydrating foods like melon, celery, cucumber and bell peppers
Eat more ‘good’ fats such as olive oil, coconut oil, avocados, fatty fish like salmon, trout, mackerel, sardines, raw sprouted nuts and seeds like pumpkin and chia seeds, almonds, walnuts and macadamia nuts.
Exfoliate with lactic and glycolic acid as these AHA’s act as a humectant as well as speed up cell renewal and prevent dead cell build up which prevents moisture from being delivered via skincare.
Heaters can strip the moisture from your skin and leaving it feeling chapped, dry, itchy and irritated. Easing up on the heater can help prevent dehydration.
Humidifiers help add moisture to the air so in the winter months when we use our heaters we can combat the “dry air” syndrome.
Houseplants can help add moisture to the air via a process called transpiration where the plants lose water through their leaves resulting in more moisture indoors. Plants like peace lily’s and ivy or those with high canopys like banana leaf.
Keep a deeply hydrating hand cream with you at all times and slather on cuticles and feet before bed.
Our skin is constantly bombarded with environmental toxins and pollutants, wearing down our skin’s natural lipid barrier. As you can see, if your skin isn’t properly hydrated, it’s more susceptible to free radical damage and pre-mature aging. I hope these tips help you keep your skin hydrated and juicy this winter!